Motorcycle Buying Guide

Nothing sucks as much as being ripped off! This motorcycle buying guide has one objective - to make sure that does not happen! Although I outlined the basic steps on buying a motorcycle this guide will go into far more detail to ensure that you make the right choice and walk away from your purchase feeling confident that you have not been cheated. You can either read the whole guide from start to finish or skip to the following sections:

What kind of bike is right for you?
Top tips on buying your guide
How to examine the bike - you want the real deal!
The paperwork

Step 1 of the Motorcycle Buying Guide: What Type of Bike is Right for You?

Motorcycle Engine

engine Motorcycles are generally differentiated by their engine size or cylinder volume (CC). Contrary to common myths, motorcycles with more CC are not always more powerful than those with less CC as it also depends on how many cylinders a bike has and the way it has been designed. Engines with more cylinders however, provide more power and are smoother to ride. Engines with fewer cylinders are cheaper, lighter and easier to maintain

To begin with it would be wise to know the difference between the following three engines:

Straight four engines

These engines have four cylinders arranged in a straight line. Most motorcycles that have a straight four engine are sport bikes that are designed for the racetrack. These engines generally make for reliable and affordable machines

V-Twin

This is a two cylinder internal combustion engine where the cylinders are arranged in a V configuration and are generally used in larger and heavier bikes (like the Harleys) that have been designed for cruising. Two-cylinder motorcycles are often called "twins."

Single-cylinder engines

These engines have been designed to be lightweight and durable and so are perfect for both off and on the road. They are also known as “singles” or “thumpers” (because of the sound that they make.)

Types of Motorcycles

No motorcycle buying guide would be complete without this section as you need to identify which type of bike suits your purpose. Each type of motorcycle is as cool as the other if it is being use for the right type of riding.

TRADITIONAL or STANDARD

naked motorcycle These bikes are also known as naked biker or street bikes. They are updated versions of what most bikes used to be with electric starters, fuel injection and disc brakes. They have a traditionally shaped gas tank, individual fenders, and low handlebars and have small fairing or none at all, so the engine is usually visible. The design emphasizes functionality, ergonomics and performance rather than extra flashy body panels of the sport bikes.

Bikes with large engine displacement are known as the “muscle bikes.”

These motorcycles offer more performance than a cruiser and less horsepower than sport bikes. The Honda 919, Suzuki GSF600 and the Yahama FZ1 are noteworthy models, but BMW, Triumph and all the Japanese manufacturers like Kawasaki are make very popular standard models.

Typical Use:Daily transportation like commuting

Motorcycle buying guide price:£2000 to £6000

CRUISER

cruiser Heavy and stable at low speeds, these bikes generally come with large V-twin engines with a more retro look. The bike has a low center of gravity, the riding position places the feet forward and the hands up with large with low saddles that allow the rider to sit upright or too lean back slightly. (This position actually evolved from the saddle and riding position used by the Western Cowboys for greater control and comfort on long distance rides.)

Cruisers are often called custom bikes because so many of them have been custom modified to suit the riders’ needs. A common modification is to customize the bike to better handle turning ability, made difficult by the typical low-slung design of the bike.

Harleys are of course the most well-recognised cruisers setting the trends in this category, but the Japanese cruisers are reliable and can be bought for half the price. Chopper style motorcycles also fit into this class of bike.

Typical Use: Longer commutes and pillion riding

Motorcycle buying guide price: £6000 to £14000

TOURING

It must be said before I continue that any motorcycle can be used to tour with, it just that if you are buying a bike primarily to tour with, then these bikes have been designed by manufacturers to BETTER cope the needs of long distance riding.

These bikes generally have large displacement shields and fairings to offer maximum weather protection. The bikes also have large capacity fuel tanks to better cope with the long distance riding as well as huge, cushy saddles with an equally huge passenger seat and lots of storage necessary for comfort on long rides. These bikes offer accessories like power outlets and heated seats. The Honda Goldwing is the leader in this category, with the Harley and BMW models falling closely behind.

Typical Use: Touring

Motorcycle buying guide price: £8000 to £12,000

You can get the following types of touring bikes:

goldwing tourer Full-Dress Tourers: This is like the king of all touring bikes, with all functions bigger and better equipped for maximum comfort. These bikes have much larger fairing and bodywork, hard luggage integrated into the design of the bodywork and a very upright riding position. The communications on these bikes are really pimped such as complete stereos, satellite radios, heated seats, GPS navigations systems, power windshields – you get the picture! The Honda Goldwing and the Harvey Davidson Electra-Glide are some of the most popular models of full-dress tourers

Standard Tourers: These bikes are a little less pimped than the full-dress tourers but they are still designed with max comfort in mind. The Honda ST1300 and the BMW R1200RT are popular models in this range.

global tourer Global On/Off-Road Tourers: Ever wondered what the participants in the Dakar Rally are riding? Now you know – these global on/off-road tourers are designed with one goal in mind – to make it possible for these bikes to ride on any given terrain. This purpose makes the design of these bikes unique. They have high ground clearance, extra large fuel reserves, metal-formed hard luggage for extreme wear and tear, hardened GPS navigation systems, large displacement under stressed engines, large size, heavy torque output and high speed capability. The BMW F650GS and the KTM 950 and 990 adventure series are noteworthy examples.

Sport Tourers: An obvious hybrid exists between sport bikes and tourers. Sport tourers provide high speed performance and capability at long distances offering a mid-ground between both segments. Popular models are the Honda VFR (Interceptor) and ST series, the Ducati Motor Holding Multistrada and ST series, the Yamaha FJR 1300 and the Triumph Sprint & Sprint ST.

SPORT

Sport bikes are also known as performance bikes or “crotch rockets” because of the power and speed that they provide. They are generally consumer versions of the bikes used in motorcycle sport racing lagging only a few years behind in technology.

These bikes are light and powerful, with great stability on corners. They have race-bred chassis and triple disc brakes (two front, one rear). They use a straight four engine and are generally produced by Japanese manufacturers. The forward-leaning riding position is not designed for long-distance riding nor has it been designed for carrying a pillion.

The most popular motorcycles in this group are the 600 cc and 1000 cc machines, although the latter are only for the highly skilled racers.

Typical Use: Extreme Riding or just because you may have that need for speed!

Motorcycle buying guide price: £3500 to £8000

OFF ROAD BIKES

off road bikes These bikes are made for a variety of off-road motorcycle sports, such as motocross, rallies and track racing. They are light weight with smaller engines and have high ground clearance to protect them from the uneven terrain. They have very little bodywork and no fairing and they have large wheels with very high suspension.

SCOOTER

scooter Scooters are designed for being ridden on the road. They are growing enormously in popularity by city dwellers who have seen the light and opted for greener and more comfortable ways to commute. The engines are generally less than 125 cc but “maxi-scooter” models have started emerging with the Honda Silver Wing leading the pack. Most scooters allow the rider to place both feet on a running board and have smaller wheels than motorcycles.

MOPED

moped The moped is a hybrid between the bicycle and motorcycle and is often confused with a scooter (I've even seen this happening in the other online motorcycle buying guides.) This bike usually has a small twp-stroke engine up to 50 cc.

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Step 2 of the Motorcycle Buying Guide: Motorcycle Buying Tips

Motorcycles cost anywhere between £2,500 - £18,00
Unfaired bikes (without extra plastic) are better for beginners than fared bikes (with extra plastic) because the plastic is much easier to damage when you drop it
Shop around
If you're not 100% sure of the model arrange a test ride. Be sure to ride a variety of roads including round town and fast A roads. Aim to ride for at least 30 minutes to be sure the bike is comfortable and what you want
Negotiate and don’t forget to remind your dealer of all the extras that you are also planning on buying like gear and accessories. *Top Motorcycle Buying Guide Tip*
The best prices can be had September to January, with December offering the best bargains. However, most bikers know this so end of season models tend to get snapped up before the end of the year. Conversely if you're looking in June-August, expect to have a harder time getting a discount. That said, there's no point buying a bike in October and keeping it in the garage all winter
Check the price of the motorcycle in one of these UK used motorcycle buying guides: The Used Motorcycle Buying Guide or Parkers used motorcycle buying guide
Once you know the amount that the dealer paid for his bike, you can expect that the profit margin with be between 10-15%, with the dealer aiming to make at least 10% profit. This will give you a good indication of how far you might be able to bargain - a top tip in the motorcycle buying guide!
Dealers prefer cash to try and put as much down as you can. *Top Motorcycle Buying Guide Tip* Go to the motorcycle financing section for more information on this
If you're paying top price make sure you're getting the latest model. (Double check this too - your dealer may be selling off last year’s model, which may only have a slight change, but it will affect the resale price.) Alternatively if you have a more challenging budget why not go for last year's model, which will mean that you can often save around 20%
A Pre-registered motorcycle is a bike that is first registered to the dealer, which will make you the second owner. Dealers do this as it will allow them to get around discount limits, increasing sales in the process. If you want a pre-registered motorcycle it should be brand new with only delivery mileage. If however, you are looking to save, you can expect a hefty discount if you are listed as the second owner. (All of this information will be listed in the V5 – also known as the logbook) *Top Motorcycle Buying Guide Tip*
You can buy ex-demo motorcycles at a significantly reduced price with an almost full-warranty. Just ensure that the motorcycle is properly run in, as this could affect the long term reliability of the bike. Don’t forget to check the bike. You will find a checklist at end of the motorcycle buying guide
Check whether the offered price includes extras like security features, road tax, number plates and fuel
By law, a dealer is not obliged to let you know whether a bike’s been damaged or not unless you ask. BUT – the law does protect you. Motorcycle buying guide on the law:
1. The bike must be of acceptable quality and be able to do the job it was bought for. It’s pretty clear that a bike is generally bought so that it can be ridden, so it is falls apart on your journey home, it clearly cant do the job it was bought to do
2. Furthermore, a bike also has to be fit for purpose. For example, if you have bought the bike to tour long distances – a dealer can not sell you a scooter. Just ensure that you make it clear to the dealer what the purpose of the motorcycle is
3. The bike must be as described, whether in a sales brochure, a showroom advertisement or by the salesperson selling it to you. This means that the bike needs to have all the features claimed that it has, and if any equipment is charged at an additional price, it needs to be made clear that this is the case
4. You no rights to compensation for any faults you were shown. Of course if the dealer is not explicit about existing faults when you buy the bike then you have a case
If you buy a bike privately ask a friend to go along with you to hear what is being said and also ask the seller to put any important points in writing. Get them to read the motorcycle buying guide as well so that they know what to look out for.
Make sure all the documents are in order and that they are consistent – so for example, do check that this mileage is actually what has been stated. ( you can read more about this in the paperwork section of the motorcycle buying guide)

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Step 3 of the Motorcycle Buying Guide: Examining Your Bike

The Motorcycle news magazine recently calculated that a new motorcycle with a retail price of £6000 would end up costing up to £25,000 if it was build from parts. With this in mind it is well worth examining the bike meticulously using all the tips in the motorcycle buying guide.

Firstly ask the dealer to explain the controls as this will indicate how much they know about the motorcycle

It is ok if the bike has minor scruffs on the fairing and levers, but if this is the case do use it to bargain with the seller

Non-cosmetic damage like cracks or damage to any of the mechanical parts may be an indication of serious damage like a crash, and you should be very wary if this is the case

Do your research – know the characteristic flaws of the models you are going to see. (Watch this space, as I hope to create an additional section in the motorcycle buying guide on this.)

Motorcycle Buying Guide on The Actual Exam

1. Check that the motorcycle is straight down the centerline
2. The handlebars also need to be even and straight
3. Check the headrace by lifting the front wheel while getting someone to push down on the seat and slowly turn the bars from the left to right and back. If it does not feel smooth when it passes centre, then the headrace needs replacing, although if it's stiff it may just need adjusting
4. A cracked seat with faded paint means that the bike has already had a long life
5. Check for scrapes on bars, the exhaust, the plastic and the levers. The general rule is that short, shallow and non parallel scratches and chips are ok, but if they are long, deep and parallel warning bells should start ringing, as these may have resulted from a crash - *Top Motorcycle Buying Guide Tip*
6. Inspect the footpegs. The general rule is that worn on top means lots of miles while worn on the bottom just means that the rider leaned too far over in corners which is not a big deal in terms of the wear and tear of the bike - *Top Motorcycle Buying Guide Tip*
7. Check for any bends in the forks which may have been caused by a collision. Hold the front wheel between your knees and twist the bars - Is there any play? There should also not be any seal leaks in the forks
8. Check that the brakes work well and are smooth. There should not be any pad materials remaining, too much or too little pressure in the cables and of course no leaks. Brake discs that are blue are a sign of overheating - *Top Motorcycle Buying Guide Tip*
9. The clutch should release when squeezed
10. Look in the gas tank. Rust is ok but a dark tea colour is an indication of old gas that needs to be changed - another top tip in the motorcycle buying guide!
11. The exhaust pressure should be equal on both sides. Also check the joins by placing your hand near them while the engine is running to check that no gas is escaping
12. The tyres need to be checked extra carefully. Check for tread depth, dry rot and the date code. Motorcycles must have a minimum or 1 mm tread across 3/4 of the width of the tyre
13. Test that all lights and switches work, and don't forget to tap them with your hand to ensure that there are no lose wires
14. There should not be any scratches or bends in the legs
15. A stretched chain will indicate chain or sprocket wear, as the chain should be tight with only about an inch of slack halfway between the sprockets and bottom run - *Top Motorcycle Buying Guide Tip*
16. Get the wheels in the air and check the wheel bearings. Also look for impact on the rim and crack
17. The steering should be smooth so check for play or vibrations in the steering
18. All the gauges should be working
19. When you take the bike for a test ride, try to get a cold engine warm and then see if it runs without using the choke. Beware if it’s hard to start or blue smoke is emitted from the exhaust
20. Check that there are no leaks on the motorcycle, especially the engine and transmission

Print out this section of the motorcycle buying guide so that you dont forget anything when examining your bike.

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Step 4 of the Motorcycle Buying Guide: The Paperwork

The types of documents that you will need to see are the MOT certificate, repair bills, the V5 and service records
Never a buy a motorcycle without a registration certificate - *Top Motorcycle Buying Guide Tip*
Hold the registration certificate up to light to check for the watermark
Check that the 17 character VIN on the motorcycle matches the VIN on the registration certificate
The VIN should be stamped somewhere on the vehicle. Check under the bonnet or in the floor panel on the driver's side
Beware of a Q registration number as it is often an indication that that the age or identity of a vehicle is unknown - *Top Motorcycle Buying Guide Tip*
If the motorcycle is over 3 years old it will need a MOT certificate. Don’t place too much emphasis on the MOT certificate though in terms of inspecting the bike. It is only a record of the fact that the bike passed a test on a certain day, and it cannot be used as a legal statement for the condition the motorcycle is currently in
Now you need to check that all the documents match the motorcycle that you are buying. You can do this by checking the engine or frame number, the make, mileage, model, the year, the colour and obviously the registration
Check that the owner can back up the service with receipts. If you have time, phone the dealers who serviced the motorcycle last and verify that the information is correct. It sounds quite anal but false stamps are easy to get hold of, so it's worth checking
It is highly unlikely, but do check that the dealer is not selling you a ‘roadworthy motorcycle’ that has only actually been made roadworthy for scrap. I have heard that it can happen
It is possible to get HPI checks to verify that a motorcycle has not been stolen, written off or has outstanding finance, in which case buying the bike could be a costly mistake. The checks cost between £12.50 - £20 and I would really recommend that you do this for peace of mind
The logbook is also known as a V5 and this lists the motorcycle ownership history but it is not proof of ownership. The seller has to complete the V5 with your details if you chose to buy the motorcycle
You will need the transfer slip as proof until your new V5 is posted to you
Also ask for a bill of sale for the purchase. This would prevent the unlikely event of the owner reporting the motorcycle stolen after you buy it - *Top Motorcycle Buying Guide Tip*
The bill of sale should include the sellers name & address, your name and address, make, model, registration number, VIN plate number and the mileage
Also, although Tax is generally no more than £65 on motorcycles, it’s worth checking how much is left

Don't forget to print out my motorcycle buying guide to keep in your back pocket when you start missioning to buy your dream bike! And most importantly good luck and have fun!

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